Kanafeh, a food symbol of the Levant

Kanafeh, or as some spell it Knafeh, Kunafeh, Kunafa, to list a few, is symbolic in our parts. She is the queen of desserts for most of us, across the Middle East.

We have all eaten this growing up, even if it wasn't our national dessert, and it most certainly is considered a delicacy for special occasions, much like our Kurdish Paklawa. It is intensely sweet, with a savory bite thanks to the cheesy filling, topped off with a crackling crunch from the shredded filo pastry. It is a big misconception that filo pastry has anything to do with this dessert, just because it is called shredded filo or phyllo dough in English. It really is kataifi (again, there are so many different spellings for this, here I’m referring to the Greek name, because it’s the one I remember), which is a very thin noodle-hair-like pastry, or similarly some like to use semolina dough known as na’ama in Arabic. There are enough variations to write a book, simply because it is eaten all across our region and is a part of our make-up, national dessert or not.

It is hard to confirm entirely that this is a dessert that originates from the Levant, some argue it originates from Turkey, others Palestine, and then there’s Syria. It is not a Kurdish delicacy, and I’m not sure they even dabble with it over there, but we are aware of it and it remains enjoyed by many of us who live abroad or in neighboring countries. Regardless, I do believe it came out of the Levant, but from where exactly is tough, as there isn’t documentation or research to tell us for sure. The main argument is that Kanafeh supposedly made its first appearance during the Umayyad era, especially made for the first Umayyad caliph, during his governance in Damascus. The Umayyad’s were the first Muslim dynasty to rule the empire of the caliphate established in 661 CE. Researchers, and common story, also claim that the richness in this dessert was to help prevent caliphs from starving during the day in Ramadan, and that is why we, the Middle East, are considered some of the best specialists in making this delicacy. Over the centuries, Kanafeh has become most popular and associated with Palestine. Kanafeh Nabulsieh, originates from the Palestinian city of Nablus, which is the most common version of Kanafeh today. It is filled with the city’s trademark Nabulsi cheese. Unfortunately this cheese is not easy to come by outside of Palestine, therefore popular substitutes have become mozzarella and ricotta. My version is a combination of my mother’s recipe and Sami Tamimi, the Palestinian half of Ottolenghi.

Kanafeh is a national institution and delicacy, made for special occasions, where no celebration is complete without it. I distinctly remember these adorning plates during parties or celebrations when living in Saudi Arabia. They are distant memories of my childhood. I used to love all of the crunchy pastries passed around, and secretly wished for more leftovers in the kitchens when the night was over. We were allowed to stay up later than usual on those occasions, cheeks pinched endlessly by aunties and uncles (we call any family friend an aunty or uncle), and letting you sit on their lap hearing stories about how you were when they last saw you. Cheeks would be sore the next day, but we felt like adults for the night. This queen of desserts is one that binds people together, friends or strangers, and holds power to excite one’s palette, no matter social status, age, race, or religion. It is ancient, yet still unites.

There is an alternative nowadays known as Kanafeh Arabiyeh (Arabic Kanafeh), which is a filling of nuts and cinnamon in place of cheese. Either form is just as special, and just as rich. Sweets and pastries are very important to Muslims, similar to bread or rice. Another popular note is that some dye their kataifi orange with saffron water, but most like to keep it natural, like myself. Since most of us homemakers need to bake this in the oven, it will end up giving your pastry a deep golden hue without the need for the saffron dye. Fun fact, in 2009 a Palestinian man from the West Bank holds the Guinness World Record for the largest Kanafeh ever made, using 600kg of cheese, 300kg of sugar, 35kg of pistachios, and a whopping 75meters long, but more shockingly it cost about $15,000 to make, which is crazy! It could feed thousands, if not more. By contrast, this event did put Nablus on the map. It was almost unknown till then, you wouldn’t have heard or read about it, unless you made it a point to understand Palestine. It became a hope for Palestinians, bringing fame to the big producer of Kanafeh, a place that holds a record now, but more importantly amplifies the city as a cheese producer, and olive oil. There are some of the best olive tree farms found in Nablus. It would be unjust to not give credit to Nablus for bringing more worldwide attention to this dessert and hailing it as its own.

Kanafeh is enjoyed all over; on the streets, to go, in restaurants, at schools or colleges, and most definitely at home. Diversity and generosity seem to be two of its strongest characteristics. It has not been appropriated too much, which is a good thing, and is still owned and sold by true locals wherever they move, hoping to bring more attention to the Palestinian spirit, or more so, the Middle East and our symbolic desserts. There is still so much unknown about our foods and delicacies across the globe, and in part it is most likely to do with cultural criticism. The two go hand in hand, and just as our society mirrors the views of one’s culture in the news, it also diminishes their cuisine. Pushing it to further corners, just like the people. Refugees and migrants are what continue to shine hope and light in the West, particularly breaking down barriers and unifying people through taste. Their family recipes tend to be what’s left to hold onto of their identity, their heritage, in new less welcoming or unfamiliar regions. Food brings people together, but it also forces conversation in disguised ways. You will always be able to converse at the dinner table, brewing good and bad tales about that food’s origins or land, and ultimately arguments or criticism can turn into knowledge and admiration.

Food is an important element in unifying communities, but also educating the greater globe on the Middle East. There is far more to us than the politics and religion, and something that is still a tricky road to maneuver and highlight in today’s world. Kanafeh traces a complex history that speaks to colonialism, the Ottoman Empire and the redrawn map of the entire region. This sweet savory dessert dates back at least 300 years, and today it is more important for the Middle East, as one of its symbols, than ever before, even if we, as Kurds, do not share that same delicacy.