The essential elements of bread making

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I’ve written on bread many times before, but I want to circle back to some essential elements that are underestimated or not spoken of enough.

The way we move today is about seeking easy and quick methods. That is breads that are no-knead at all or take one hour to proof, etc. It’s all fine, but there are some things I do not like to cut corners on or eliminate instrumental elements that can affect flavor, rise and texture. Especially the fact that most of us have plenty more time to our days now (speaking for myself for sure) I’d rather focus on the lengthy, enduring cooking processes that perfect a skill that I’ve probably been trying to master when I was working full-time and in the midst of a chaotic lifestyle. Not only do I want to perfect bread, because I have a great passion working with doughs, but because I like taking it back to how our ancestors or relatives cooked and the basic skills and lack of equipment they used, to deliver even more delicious dishes than you would know today. If there’s one thing that this pandemic has taught us is to slow down and appreciate life. Slowing down to me also means taking the time to nurture and learn. There’s no need for the easy-quick ways all the time now.

Right, and don’t forget to vote. Because. I don’t need to explain why. Let’s face it, most of the world is anxious for the results and we aren’t sleeping or eating (or perhaps eating all the wrong things till this is over). So if I can bring some respite or comfort with this post I have done my duty. Not always is it to do with my home or culture, as is this case.

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Bread is the ultimate comfort food. We all need that now, especially. Have you ever grabbed a piece of toast, smeared it with peanut butter or butter as your midnight snack and felt utterly satisfied before bed? I do. I am constantly baking bread. The only one I have steered clear from is sourdough so far, because I will admit I am still intimidated by the starter process. As I write this, I am preparing myself to learn how to make croissants (what’s the difference to starters at this point). Hah. In this post I will expand on some essential elements that are undervalued or mostly not spoken of if you aren’t a culinary student, keen baker, or researching.

I invested in Ken Forkish’s book, Flour Water Salt Yeast, earlier in the year and it was transformational. I learnt so much through it, I’ve implemented all his teachings and advice into my other recipes. It’s definitely not a beginners book, so it can seem intimidating for first time bakers, but practice also makes perfect. When I first took French bread seriously, my first attempt was a royal disaster. It was edible and tasted fine, but it wasn’t perfect at all. Since then, I’ve never looked back. Make sure you have a dutch oven. All the other substitute processes are fine, but in the end, the dutch oven will be your best investment if making bread often.

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My first essential elemental lesson was incorporating the autolyse method. Every fermented dough can incorporate this method and takes no longer than 30mins. The autolyse method, as Forkish explains, is when you let the flour and water mixed together sit alone first. It allows the flour to better absorb the water before the fermentation and proofing process. The water helps activate the enzymes in the flour, which in turn will allow for proper dough development. It helps increase the stretch of the dough, something bakers refer to as existensibility, making it easier to shape and produce a loaf with better texture, rise and flavor. My recipes are not easy and quick. I have done that on purpose, because I want it to be an evolution of creation, not the fast route, when it comes down to bread. Timing is everything and this method is a reminder of that. Autolyse is easy to incorporate into your routine, but you are adding 30mins more to the schedule. We underestimate bread timing easily.

That brings me to the second essential element, which is fermentation and proofing. A lot of recipes nowadays focus on no-kneading or one hour fermentations. This is great and breads like pita and flatbreads don’t usually need more than one hour, but French bread does. We have created ways for it not to need a lot of time; however, proper bulk fermentation takes at least 5-6 hours or overnight, with folds (which is essentially the kneading process) incorporated at certain intervals, and will triple in size not double. Something I have learnt from Forkish, but have also come to realize is present in all my other research. Allowing for a lengthier fermentation period gives the dough maximum flavor. Biochemical reactions are important for bread. It is all a science at the end of the day, and with that, requires time.

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Another important essential element is mixing with hand. Most of us want to avoid getting hands mucky or sticky, but certain breads benefit from the human touch as an element, rather than a mixer. For some like pitas, brioches, flatbreads, a stand or electric mixer is preferred, because kneading aggressively for 10mins is tiresome and hard work. It depends on the style of bread you need to make and what amount of rise is necessary for it to turn out correctly. French breads like this one benefit from less kneading, because you will be doing it over time rather than the first mix and it is a gentle process. The fermentation does most of the work here. Therefore, you don’t need a stand mixer, but mixing by hand is important. Using them is an element, almost like an ingredient itself.

Our ancestors made bread by hand, there were no fancy tools or equipment. Why should we mix by electric machines when not always necessary. The need for the machine, other than bakeries and factories, is so that it can incorporate the yeast and salt well, but our hands can do just that. We already knew how to do that before technology. The way the machine mixes yeast in is the same as the pincer method by hand. This is where you pinch the dough several times, almost cutting it in pieces and then folding it over itself and repeating, as you can see in the image above. It’s a perfect harmony that looks utterly simple and ineffective, but in fact, you are doing just as much as the machine is on a slow speed.

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The comfort in bread is more than just carb-loading. It’s a staple. It ties back to every culture and cuisine on this planet. There’s a simplicity in it that is profound. It’s one of the beginnings of food for us once fire and grain were known. It’s just four ingredients that transform and create wonderful doughs manipulated and shaped any which way. We are all about shortcuts, but we also know how to complicate recipes or get creative that it takes away from the simplicity of bread, when in fact, all it needs are those four ingredients: flour, water, salt, yeast. By taking a step back to understand how everything can be done with the use of your hands, and being unafraid to get quite sticky, will you feel like you are mastering bread and understanding the elements of successful bread making.

There is still so much more for me to share on bread making, but I can’t pour it all into one post or I’d go on for pages. With that, I hope this has given you a nice break for the day.

AND PS: VOTE!

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Manakeesh (Za’atar flatbreads)

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