Let’s talk French toast
Brunch; something very characteristic about NYC, but where I like to think French Toast shines. It's what Eggs Benedict is to others, and don't get me wrong, I do love an eggs benny, but French Toast feels like a speciality and a delectable, attractive plate, when done right. It's the bourgeois plate of pancakes for me.
I don't order it often, but when I do, I try to make sure I'm getting the best. I don't tend to make French Toast much at home, rather enjoying it at restaurants and diners, because I think there is an art to getting it perfect and crunchy on the outside, whilst remaining airy and fluffy on the inside. With that said, I have dabbled in my efforts of making homemade versions over the years, with two recipes standing out the most: Jean George's rendition of French Toast served at ABC Kitchen in the Flatiron district and Ottolenghi's version in his recipe book, Plenty. I still have a ways to go, to get it just right, but I recently tried out Ottolenghi's one, and I would definitely make it again. It is a bit more complicated than most recipes, so be warned that this will not take you less than 45mins, if you're in the mood for quick and need-to-inhale-sooner approach.
This version goes a little backwards in the process to Jean Georges', where you soak the brioche (or challah, in my case, accidentally didn't read the recipe prior to and figured challah would work fine - it did, but brioche would have been more precise) and bake it first, before roasting in a pan or skillet. I'm used to the other way around, so this one caught me off-guard at first, but then I appreciated how he wants you to finish with the buttery crispness, rather than oven crisp. Depending on what you prefer for the end result, you would choose one of these recipes over the other; however, if you're like me and learning the difference in taste and process, I would say Ottolenghi's is a little more refined, due to the complexity of assembling and the steps. Though this one turned out delicious, and I would make it again, it was a little more battery once done, not sure if I overdid something, or if it was intentionally supposed to be way more moist, because it is a double dipping/soaking process, so its end result turned out higher in egg batter content that I would have liked. It managed to retain some butter roasted crispness in the last step of cooking, but once served it did get soggy a little quick.
I think if I used less batter, it would have been able to soak it up easier in the oven before crisping in the pan. Once roasted in the pan, it felt too dense and heavy, which I knew immediately would mean it gets soggy quick. For next time, what I would recommend is when asked to pour 2/3 of the batter onto the brioche for the oven roasting, I would make sure it isn't overloaded or completely saturating the brioche pieces - it should be moist enough and semi covered instead of fully, in contrast to what his recipe states.
It is definitely an impressive presentation, because it is not just your basic roasted slice, so if you're looking to level up your brunch with family and friends, then go right for it with this one! I prefer more brioche goodness over batter soaked-ness, so I would prefer to repeat Jean Georges' recipe more often, and save Ottolenghi's for the times I want to impress or perfect the batter content ratio to crispness.
Now that I've shared a little of my insight and preferences, I do think eating French Toast at a restaurant or diner is still different. There is something that I can never quite achieve when home-making it, and perhaps it's my skillset or oven, but it still leads me to want to keep eating French Toast outside and enjoying that delectableness and all-around puffy, crunchy goodness that just comes out different when made by someone else *i.e. a professional*.
I am someone who likes to make challenging recipes, to test myself and try and achieve what the amazingly edited cookbook pictures look like, so don't hesitate and if you do, lean into it and push yourself to branch out or dig into the uncomfortable. As much as I can hold back or be lazy, I do love an uncomfortable cooking situation - call me crazy. I don't think anyone who truly explores baking and cooking isn't, anyways. And all the merrier! Happy battering-up...*but don't over do it*